Mosses are plants comparatively simple in structure and function and, with the Liverworts, comprise the Bryophyta family – one of the least complicated groups of the plant kingdom.
Mosses are found in very many situations, for example, on stones, tree trunks and turf. If you have moss on your lawns then it is primarily an indicator that you are not looking after the millions of individual grass plants that make up your lawn.
About 600 species of moss occur naturally in this country, but only a few are common on turf. Distinguishing three types of moss is helpful, as each of the three groups of turf-inhibiting mosses tends to occur under rather different conditions.
Although it is generally assumed that moss infestation in lawns is a direct result of acid, waterlogged and compacted soil conditions, some species favour chalky or alkaline soils. Others can be found on light, sandy soils.
Where moss is a persistent problem, it often indicates some fundamental weakness in the turf and treatment with a moss killer is often only a short-term answer.
From the ‘Causes of Moss Invasion list’, it should be obvious that persistent moss problems are an indication of some fundamental weakness in a turf area. The presence of significant quantities of moss for long periods each year suggests that the turf may be excessively acid, lacking in fertilizer dressings or excessively wet with a small percentage of actual grass content.
Correcting these deficiencies will result in stronger grass growth and the moss then tends to disappear naturally because of the increased competition presented by healthy grasses.
Simple treatment with a moss-killing chemical is, therefore, often not the complete answer to moss trouble. Cultural control should always be considered first. Prevention is always better than cure.
A lawn should have nothing in it except good dense healthy desirable grasses – neither weeds nor moss.
Causes of Moss Invasion
1. A moist turf – poor drainage encourages the fern-like and tufted mosses
2. A soft, spongy sward with a thick fibre layer
3. A very dry soil, e.g. over drains, on mounds and ridges.
Inadequate watering or over-drainage encourages the upright type
4. Bare areas remaining after weeds have died
5. Cutting the grass too low
6. Diseased turf
7. Dry acid soil
8. Low fertility, e.g. deficiencies of plant nutrients
9. In appropriate maintenance
10. Inadequate or poor grass cover and growth
11. Low nutrient status
12. Neglect
13. Over-consolidation of the soil - compaction
14. Poor surface levels which may lead to scalping
15. Shade from trees, hedges and buildings and topography – north facing lawn
16. Turf that is not growing under ideal growing conditions
17. Weak and sparse turf
18. Compaction & over consolidation
19. Prolonged periods of wet weather
20. Time of year – autumn, winter and spring
There are three main groups of Moss
Type 1: Hypnum and Eurhynchium species
Fern-like mosses usually trailing amongst the grass stems. Present in many types of turf but characteristic of moist, rather spongy swards where there is a soft surface mat and a quantity of loose litter. Such mosses are often a problem in turf.
Type 2: Ceratodon purpureus and Bryum species
Tufted or mat-forming mosses that are particularly common on excessively acid soils. Ceratodon purpureus is common and is the so-called "winter moss", as it appears to die in spring when native growth starts, only to reappear in the autumn. Tends to become progressively worse unless checked on lawns.
Type 3: Polytrichum species
Upright variety of moss, most common on dry mounds surrounding golf greens etc. Not normally very troublesome, except occasionally under acid conditions.
Mosses are quite distinct, possessing a simple or branched delicate brown stem, which bears directly, and on its branches, thin green filamentous leaves. The plant is anchored to the soil by means of rhizoids, (root-like structures similar to root hairs on flowering plants). The rhizoids also absorb water and mineral salts that are transported via the stem to the leaves. The leaves are delicate, thin and flat and only one cell thick except at the midrib. Because the leaves are thin, carbon dioxide can enter them more easily, resulting in more efficient use of poor light, but the frailty of the leaves also makes mosses very susceptible to drought.
A few mosses such as Polytrichum have extra rows of cells, making the leaves harder, drought-resistant and more difficult for chemicals to penetrate. Along with broad-leaved weeds, moss is the commonest invader of lawns. It will quickly colonise a lawn if conditions are favourable, preventing the establishment of the turf grasses.
Moss Invasion in Lawns
Moss soon establishes on weak and thin swards where there is a lack of competition from vigorous turf. Most moss killers are palliative – the weed soon returns unless the factors responsible for a thin sward are removed. A strong healthy turf is the best answer to moss prevention.
The invasion of turf grass areas by moss plants seems to be on the increase. Poor surface drainage has always been considered responsible for the invasion or mosses, yet many prestigious arenas have been troubled by the incursion of mosses in spite of their intensive care programmes of scarification, aeration and soil modification and over seeding with new grass seed. Most modern chemical control materials seem to be short lived and repeated applications become necessary.
Perhaps lawn owners are not applying the chemical controls accurately enough for a positive response, or are the chemical controls being applied at the wrong time in the moss plant life cycle? Are the moss plants becoming more resistant to the available chemical controls?
There is one point that does spring to mind – there are two periods of growth each year. The first period is in the spring, and then following the compaction of the soil surfaces during use over the summer. At this time of the year, lawn owners begin cultural operations in earnest, including thorough scarification. If the germinating moss spores are not controlled, prior to scarification, the mosses will spread by vegetative reproduction and produce another crop of spores. These will remain dormant, protected by actively growing turf grasses through any dry spell until the autumnal rains occur. Once again the moss spores will germinate and moss growth will be rapid while the soil is still warm.
Most lawn owners will budget for recurring moss invasion each year; but not for a second crop in that year. Again it is interesting to note that after a very dry summer, moss growth can be seen as soon as the soil becomes moist again.
Control of Moss – Cultural Practices
A whole variety of different causes may be responsible for the establishment of one or more species of moss in quantities detrimental to the turf. These causes and their remedies are listed as follows:
Certain mosses are encouraged by lack of subsoil drainage, a compacted or water-saturated surface, or excessive rolling. Excessive moisture in the surface soil, if only a temporary winter phenomenon, may be relatively unimportant, but if the moss becomes established, the porosity of the surface must be improved by aeration, scarifying and the application of sharp sand, or in some cases Charcoal, Gypsum or Lime.
Soil impoverishment leads to scanty covering of grass and the establishment of quite different moss species. Fertilizer applications – Sulphate of Ammonia at 9 grams to 18 grams per sqm, to which some Ferrous Sulphate or Super-Phosphate, both of which scorch but do not kill moss, may be added – encourage thickening of the sward, something that is easily achieved with regular application of a suitable lawn fertiliser every three months. Timing is important, as the moss also benefits from the addition of plant nutrients, so that fertilizer should be applied at the period of maximum grass growth, preferably in February to October.
Some moss species including the troublesome Polytrichum, as well as tough flat lichens like Peltigera canina, develop on acid, sandy or peaty soils, and must be treated with lime or alkaline fertilizers. Similarly, Pohlia nutans can be controlled to a certain extent by making the soil more alkaline. Conversely, Barbula fallax, which generally occurs on calcareous soils, can be gradually reduced by the judicious use of acidic fertilizers such as Sulphate of Ammonia.
The overall problem is that if lawn owners actually looked after their lawns like the turf grass science books advise, they would not have all the problems with their lawns that escalate with the rapid reduction of quality. This assumes that the quality of the lawn is good when they start the ownership of the area.
The lawn renovation process is to turn the tide on the percentage of moss to grass ratio so that grasses are dominant whereas the moss is not.
Control of Moss – Non Cultural
This works well in the long term only if it is combined with cultural control. Do not plan to kill the moss off if you are not going to over seed the lawn to improve the grass content.
Sometimes moss can be encouraged in the short-term on even the most well managed turf areas and lawns. A particularly wet spell of weather or cold conditions when grass growth is limited can, for example, encourage a temporary outbreak of moss. Under these circumstances treatment of the area with a suitable moss killing chemical is often an adequate answer to the problem although underlying factors that can encourage moss should always be considered.
The traditional chemical for moss control in turf is Sulphate of Iron known as Ferrous Sulphate, applied in the calcined form, with or without Sulphate of Ammonia. It is often the form of moss control in the majority of lawn fertiliser sold in Garden Centres. Sulphate of Iron gives a fast kill and is cheap, but is not long lasting. It is often baulked with a carrier such as kiln dried sand, especially in winter, but is more often used for spring/summer application in Lawn Sand. For example, a mixture of 1 part Sulphate or Iron: 3 parts Sulphate of Ammonia: 10-20 parts carrier (sand or compost). This mixture is used at 140g/m2 (4oz/yd2) and is commonly known as "Lawn Sand". You can also purchase soluble Sulphate of Iron which you mix with water and apply as a foliar spray to the lawn.
It is always the Sulphate of Iron in the lawn treatment that will turn the moss black very quickly and stimulate a rapid greening up of the turf area.
New chemicals are most persistent. One of the most popular is Dichlorophen but the use of this active ingredient has now been withdrawn. It had a rapid effect and which persisted for some time. Phenolic moss killers also have their uses and also help control the weed Speedwell, which is a bonus. Some discolouration of the grass can occur unless the material is carefully applied. It is important that the moss is thoroughly wetted with the control chemical too.
A downloadable .PDF version Moss and Moss Control in Lawns is available here
I am a member of a croquet club which is about 5 lawns in area (a full lawn being 28 yards wide by 35 yards long). I am querying on adding iron to the lawn (iron sulphate). We do have a water tank to use and I know the amounts of iron to water and how much it should cover. However, I have been looking further into this. Its suggested the best time of year is Spring, although you can do it from Autumn. Is this correct? Also they suggest scarifying, although they seem uncertain to whether its best done before or after iron spreading. Can you suggest which is best and why? Also, how often would I need to do it?
Thanks for any help you can give.
Reply: We emailed you direct.
Posted by: Paul Dowdall | January 04, 2021 at 23:03
I have an area of my lawn that is wet once the rain comes as we get some of the water from my neighbours run of ,we get a lot of moss ,treated with fertiliser this burnt the moss, should I rake ,scarify and put gypsum to improve drainage ,if yes how much would you suggest per metre.
Posted by: Mr Trevor Ryan | May 06, 2020 at 12:23
I am going to use Iron Sulphate to kill my lawn moss, however, we have two small dogs, will Iron Solphate harm them?
Kind regards,
Roger
Reply: Keep the dogs off for 24 Hrs or until it rains as it will get on their pads and may hurt if they have a little cut on their pad.
Posted by: Roger Stevens | March 02, 2019 at 10:51
We treated the lawn with lawn sand four days ago it has rained a lot on it so will it now be safe for my kids to play on the lawn now.
Reply: Yes it will
Posted by: Sandy Pistolas | May 04, 2018 at 08:48
Great article with some really good tips, i used a new product for both my lawn and hard surfaces, apparently the frst chemical free moss remover which is a huge + for me as i have kids and two dogs. i got it through there website and its well worth trying https://vivagreengroup.com/product-category/mossoff/
Reply: Thanks for this, we will take a look at your suggestion
Posted by: Sean | November 14, 2016 at 10:52
I have sacrificed my lawn today and taken out 50/100 kilo moss/thatch/old grass clippings .Please advice if I can compost this at my allotment.I have not been able to get a direct answer.
Many thanks
Ron
Reply - yes if you have not applied a soluble iron first to kill the moss.
Posted by: Ron Dryburgh | October 25, 2016 at 18:47
Love this really detailed write up.
Talks through the full extent of moss invasion.
Thank you for sharing
Posted by: Al | September 14, 2016 at 21:29
I've just started renovating our lawn before finding this article. There is a lot of moss and weeds so I've scarified the lawn with the intention of using a feed, weed and moss killer first. I was going to scarify again in 2 weeks then seed it. Should I seed it now then deal with the moss etc once the new grass has established?
Many thanks
Rookie gardener Kirsty
Reply - Get rid of what you do not want in your lawn first, then renovate it. See our article Renovating your Lawn
Posted by: Kirsty Duncan | July 15, 2016 at 10:29
I use baking soda to kill moss. Sometimes kills surrounding grass though. When I used it in the winter it didn't kill the grass but in spring/summer it is (killing the grass). The grass is growing back though. BS also has killed that spreading, round leaf weedy thing.
Reply - that is very interesting. Baking Soda contains Sodium Bicarbonate so the salt element is killing the moss.
Posted by: Cindy | May 24, 2016 at 13:10
I have been struggling with moss in my lawn now for a number of years, all of a sudden this year the moss is going brown and dying, all on its own. Although, at this stage I am not complaining, I would like to know why as I have not intervened. Any ideas ???
Reply - it has been quite dry over the past few weeks. You are very lucky. Rake it out quickly and over seed and top dress.
Posted by: Steve Todd | May 05, 2016 at 09:16
Can I rake out the green moss in my lawn and then reseed or do I have to treat it first and wait for the moss to die?
Reply - you can mow your lawn then scarify and mow it again and then treat with a moss killer like soluble iron. Works if the moss is very dense. You can always mow, scarify, mow again after the moss is dead.
Posted by: stuart jones | April 05, 2016 at 23:06
Hello , My lawn and flower bed is full of moss I have put iron sulphate on the lawn but don't know how to get rid of the moss in the flower bed. Especially as spring flowers are growing. In two weeks time I plan to do the scarifying do I apply the 4in1 fertiliser after before or after re seeding. Also how long a duration between each step.
Reply - it is a tough one. You could do some selected spraying onto the worse areas. The problem is the moss in the flower borders will migrate onto the lawn unless controlled. Can you not scrape it out?
Posted by: Lilleth Meadows | March 21, 2016 at 22:45
Excellent info here, I am currently doing some research and found exactly what I was looing for.
Reply - super job, thank for your kind words.
Posted by: Jonson richard | March 11, 2016 at 00:13
I love your article!!! it gives me useful information!!! Thank you so much!!!
Posted by: George Patterson | March 09, 2016 at 18:49
If the moss turns black really quickly (almost immediately), do I still need to wait 2 weeks before raking out? If so, why do I need to wait?
Also, I read that it can be useful to reapply moss killer after removing dead moss before re-seeding, to get to any remaining moss below any built up moss thatch. Would you advise that? And if so, when I can re-seed after a second application?
Reply - yes, wait two weeks for the moss treatment to do its work, then re apply and then wait two weeks then mow and scarify and mow again then aerate, fertilise, over seed and top dress in that order. Type in Lawn Renovation in the search facility to come up with the flow chart of when and how and what order.
Posted by: Judi | March 07, 2016 at 12:09
Thank you so much for this very timely post!
I was just hosting my mother-in-law for a visit this past week, and don't think I effectively got across my reasons for not wanting to spray RoundUp onto the lush vegetation springing up from between the patio bricks. The kids can only dig up so much, and I think spraying first and digging after will be the way to go. I really appreciate seeing the results of your homemade mix in action!
Posted by: Daniel | December 23, 2015 at 11:55
We have a north facing garden that is not very wide, which is sheltered by a huge 12ft hedge on the west side. We do seem to get a lot of moss in our garden. I was wondering if it is just the issue of a north facing garden or whether the hedge could also be having a negative impact on our lawn?
Reply: Grass does not like north facing gardens and will go thin easily. The hedge is really not helping the situation by creating alien growing conditions for the lawn and turf grasses. You will need to keep over seeding the lawn maybe once or twice a year to keep the density and make sure you control worm casts with www.castclear.co.uk and fertilise every three months. Basically do everything you can do to retain densidy of the turf.
Posted by: Ellie | June 12, 2015 at 21:24
I'm told that boiling water poured onto mossy lawns gets rid of the moss. I find this a bit drastic. Surely it would kill the grass also.
Reply - yes it will. Soluble Iron for moss control gets rid of moss as does raking it out and replacing with new grass seed. Healthy grasses in lawns also deter moss beautifully by keeping the grass cover to stop it getting in. Moss is always an indicator of a suffering lawn.
Posted by: joan scott | May 13, 2015 at 10:12
Can I mow my lawn 3 or 4 days after applying iron sulphate. The moss is going black. or do I have to wait until I have scarified and removed the dead moss?
Reply - do not mow for three days before or five days after any lawn treatment. Leave the moss control for two weeks then scarify and fertilise and over seed and top dress.
Posted by: Neil Miller | April 19, 2015 at 11:56
I scarified my lawn and put down evergreen 4-in1. Should that be enough for lawn to go back to normal, even though bags and bags of moss came out leaving hardly any grass? Or should I be putting down grass seeds?
Reply - You hopefully put down the moss control product and left it two weeks then scarified. We never like piggy backing one product onto the back of another, use seperate fertiliser, moss and weed killer at the right time. I would over seed the lawn now and top dress with a recycled compost and feed only in three months. See www.thelawnshop.co.uk for lawn care products.
Posted by: Lucas | April 18, 2015 at 23:27
Can the moss collected from a lawn be used in lining hanging baskets?
Posted by: Gillian press | April 16, 2014 at 13:40
We bought our house almost two years ago now, the front yard has been plagued with moss since we've moved in. After reading your article my plan is to hit it with soluble iron, then 2 weeks later scarify it, then over seed. My concern is that I'll do something that will kill off the grass too, as it is out front where everyone in the neighborhood will see the eyesore. Do you have any words of caution on this subject?
Reply - If the lawn is mostly moss then kill it all off with a Glyphosate total weed killer and then perform the mechanical tasks you mention and then over seed and top dress it. Be cruel to be kind and if you are blanket over seeding then there should not be a problem if what grasses are there are killed ahead or during renovation.
Posted by: James | March 21, 2014 at 18:55
MO Bacter has worked a treat for me over the last few years, to the point where on a 250 sq m stand there isn't a shred of moss.
To be fair, I have spent considerably on professional turf products too - wetting & aeration agents, soil amendments etc - but most thanks go to the MO B; what are your views on the product?
Reply - Proof in the results!!
Posted by: John | May 17, 2013 at 20:39
Use sulphate of iron moss goes black in about 2 days.
Posted by: will rude t | May 09, 2013 at 18:38
Hi,
I have moved to a house with a huge lawn area, nearly 2 acres. The lawn is at least 70% moss! I cannot even think about killing the moss or the lawn as it is too big a job right now... I would like to start helping the grass "take back control". I realise this will be a long term project. Any hints
Cheers
Reply - please read our article called How to Renovate a Lawn to get the flow chart of what and when and how to do it.
Posted by: Alan | May 08, 2013 at 09:21
Very good tips. Moss is known as the most common horticultural problem in a garden. This is one thing lawn owners need to deal with sometime or other. Regular maintenance and improving the health of the lawn will help.
Posted by: Alice | April 27, 2013 at 12:54
Now diclorophen is withdrawn is an alternative available for autumn control of moss in lawn?
Reply - Soluble Iron, little and often as a foliar spray will keep it at bay and also have healthy turf grasses and no bare areas!
Posted by: brian | November 01, 2012 at 14:29
Very well said. Thanks for sharing these tips. Now we can have great weapon against moss. And we can now be assured that our lawn will be healthy and moss free at all times.
Posted by: Ronald | October 27, 2012 at 01:14
Do you have any organic solutions to kill moss.
Reply - The solution is not to kill it if you want an organic solution.
Posted by: cathy winters | August 24, 2012 at 02:13
hi, we got an extension completed last year. At the back of the house we always had a sloping lawn, so we also got this raised and levelled and finally a layer of topsoil. We put grass seed down in the autumn of last year and it has 'sort of' taken in areas. I now find this weekend, after much rain and humidity that we have a worse lawn than before! Large stones/bricks even and huge cauliflower type weeds! Would the topsoil have been an inferior grade? I realise that weeds can germinate, so I am realistic about that, but the stones, of which there are many, and bricks? My builder assures me it was top grade soil.(we have a south facing garden and live in Scotland)
Reply - what you put in is what you get out of it. It the soil was really stony then the grass will struggle for water. It might be best to total weed kill the new lawn off with a glyphosate based product, leave it a week or so and stone bury the stones into the surface, level and over seed and also fertilise. If you do not want this hassle, hand pick the stones, and over seed and fertilise and then top dress with a loam to fill in the micro levels. Recycled compost would be ideal for this task.
Posted by: LINDA CLARK | June 24, 2012 at 15:56
Very Cool, I have been going crazy about the moss in the front yard. I will try and update. Thanks for the info.
Posted by: Debbra Japuncic | April 25, 2012 at 01:10
I have infestation of moss on my back lawn and the grass is nearly gone because of it, what is the best way to get and stay rid.
Reply - Kill the lawn with The Lawn Shop Soluble Iron. Wait two weeks. Type the words Lawn Renovation into this lawn advice blog and an order of renovation will come up for you to easily follow. Good luck!
Posted by: Tom Brett | March 24, 2012 at 20:23
I have scarifier my lawn today. When can I put down fertilizer on it. I must admit it looks well and took out lots of moss. Any advice please. Jenny
Reply - do it now and over seed the entire lawn too with new grass seed.
Posted by: Jennifer Ansfield | March 19, 2012 at 20:17
What/When are the best time's of year to treat Moss.
Reply - Anytime like now when the ground is not frozen, there is some grass grass growth and also moss in the sward. See www.thelawnshop.co.uk and Moss Control for some Soluble Iron to treat it.
Posted by: Pete | January 22, 2012 at 16:35
I put a new lawn in May but it's gradually being eaten up by moss. I've already put down some moss killer but it has returned with vengence and now I wonder if I can put more treatment down at this time of year i.e. in the middle of a mild winter.
Reply - Apply a Soluble Iron to the lawn at the end of January or sooner is weather mild. Overseed the lawn in the spring once you start mowing the lawn. Each 3 months, over seed again, especially if a north facing lawn. There are lots of articles about moss control on this blog to help you and overseeding and grass seed.
Posted by: trgdudley | December 27, 2011 at 22:34
It looks awful. I have scarified it and have now put down a lawn conditioner but there are bare patches every where.
Reply - over seed it with new lawn seed and the bare patches should quickly fill in otherwise they will soon have weeds and moss in these areas.
Posted by: Mississauga Real Estate | November 10, 2011 at 04:51
Good stuff as per usual, thanks. I do hope this kind of thing gets more exposure.
Repy - thanks!
Posted by: | October 31, 2011 at 06:18
Very informative thanks. I will now commence operation bowling green!
Posted by: rick smith | September 18, 2011 at 14:29
Hi what is the best way to over seed after scarification do I put compost down on bare areas thanks.
Reply - Peter, use a drop fertiliser spreader or a rotary spreader but you will have to stay away from the flower borders otherwise the gras seed will get into these. Make sure you apply at least 15 grams per sqm across all of the lawn. You can top dress afterwards to restore the micro levels. Search Blog for Grass Seed, Over Seeding and Top Dressing to find the articles you require to help you. Apply seed as soon as you are able to take advantage of the rain :-)
Posted by: Peter chaloner | June 22, 2011 at 21:24
Hi, I have an infestation in my lawn of some type of ground covering weed, it looks like blanket weed that you'd find in a pond. The usual granular weed and feed doesn't touch it. It is rapidly spreading throughout the whole lawn and seems to smother the grass and ultimately kill it off. Please help!
Reply - pictures are always great - email to [email protected]
Posted by: Rich | June 19, 2011 at 20:06
I have applied a well known 4 in 1 treatment for my lawn two weeks ago. It looks awful. I have scarified it and have now put down a lawn conditioner but there are bare patches every where. Will the grass grow back?
Reply - we bet that is had not rained since it was put down either? Applying a 3 in 1 or 4 in 1 multi roduct can 'shock' a lawn, especially if in drought or semi drought. Always best to apply seperate products. Over seed the lawn once rain promised infact you should always overseed a lawn following scarification. Hope this helps!
Posted by: Caroline Jones | May 23, 2011 at 21:54
I have put lawn weed & feed on my lawn two weeks ago and have just scarified it. I have removed a vast amount of thatch and moss but unfortunately there is a dearth of rain at present. I have been watering the lawn at dawn and dusk, is this the correct procedure.
Reply - Yes. Best to over seed your lawn after scarifying it too. Pray for more rain too!
Posted by: Trevor Prince | May 02, 2011 at 11:49
ive moved in to my house a year ago and now having the time and weather i have used a scratcher machine to pick up the moss from my lawn and applied feed and weed and moss killer to it, will this work?
Reply - always apply lawn treatments at least two weeks ahead of any mechnical work like scarifying. The trick is to kill the moss with Soluble Iron and then after two weeks, scarify it out and then over seed the lawn.
Posted by: andrea | April 22, 2011 at 12:31
If you have treated the moss with Iron Sulphate solution but after 2 weeks it has not killed it all is it OK to treat again or will this damage the lawn?
Reply - No. The initial dose rate was not strong enough or too little water solution was used as the moss needs to be quite wet following applicaton. You can over do the Iron and damage the turf grasses. Applicator calibration is the key.
Posted by: Mike Bryant | April 07, 2011 at 13:41
I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH A MOSS INFESTED LAWN, I have read up on the causes, and remedies required to remove the problems that encourage the growth of "pest" in the lawn, but, initially, I need to remove the present
infestation before initiating the preventive treatment. I purchased a Kilo of Ferrous Sulphate to treat the area,but I cannot find the correct water / sulphate ratio, or the square meter coverage this mixed solution will treat. Can you advise please?
Regards,
R.W.Phillips.
Reply - with The Lawn Shop Soluble Iron for Moss Control mix around 1.2Kg of it into 15 Lts of Water via a Knapsack and it will turn the moss black. You can increase to 1.5KG of product in the knapsack. This will typically treat 500 - 750 sqm of lawn dependant upon your Knapsack Calibration.
Posted by: Mr R. W. PHILLIPS | March 25, 2011 at 20:32
So you have any solution to rodents???
Reply - it depends upon the Rodent - suggest a proper Pest Control Company
Posted by: selling gold jewellery | March 22, 2011 at 06:34
Can I compost the collected dead moss when I rake and scarify. I have 500 square meters of lawn, and disposal is a problem. Ken Titley.
Reply - Ken, you are not meant to compost iron treated debris or clippings but you can do should you wish. You could get a Hippo Bag or small skip or take a few trips to the waster transfer station.
Posted by: Ken Titley | March 13, 2011 at 09:00
a very helpfull article i look forward to trying some of thease methods
Ernie - Thanks for the kind words! Regards Mike Seaton
Posted by: Ernie Holmes | February 27, 2010 at 09:22
A highly informative article, articulate and wide-ranging for once, rather than rehashing the same old points; thanks.
Would you care to comment on the new wonder-cure MO Bacter? I laid this down a month or so ago, and await the three-month cycle-end with a distinct mix of scepticism, fatalism and unbounded hope and joy.
Best regards
John Moser
Posted by: John Moser | June 13, 2009 at 20:25
10 Kg will treat 4,000 square metres per single application. Please apply the 10 Kg in at least 150 litres of water. 1 Kg per 400 sqm in 15 Lts of Water
Posted by: Mike Seaton | March 18, 2009 at 18:29